photo: Mark A Buckton

In the shadow of Senso-ji
Sanity begins in the streets to the left of the main avenue leading between Kaminari-mon (the large gate with the giant lantern hanging under it) and Senso-ji, and it is tucked away here that you can find the small and peaceful Chingo-do Shrine.

Chingo-do was built in 1872, with some accounts claiming its construction was to ward off the tanuki (raccoon dogs) that had been bewitching the people of Asakusa. That would explain the presence of several tanuki statues in the shrine, but fails to explain why all the tanuki have massive testicles dangling between their legs. Perhaps it has something to do with fertility, perhaps wishful thinking on the part of the sculptor. Either way, try not to let the tanuki’s tackle distract you from the peace and quiet.

photo: Rob Goss

The pond that stretches out behind Chingo-do belongs to Denpo-in Temple, another spot often overlooked in favour of Senso-ji, even though Denpo-in is actually Senso-ji’s parent temple. Denpo-in is largely off-limits to the public, but the monks are sometimes happy to show people around the temple’s exquisite garden and the Shinji-ike (a pond in the shape of the Chinese character for heart). What really makes Denpo-in worthy of mention, though, is that it is still a place where monks pursue ascetic lifestyles, in a sense leaving it unchanged since it was built in 1777.

Asakusa’s theatre district
Following the signs from Chingo-do toward the Tsukuba Express station will take you past a few stalls selling discount clothing and then bring you to Rokku Broadway (6th Street Broadway), the area that was once one of Tokyo’s most lively entertainment zones. Today, Asakusa is still home to several theatres specializing mainly in classic comedy performances like manzai, a form of stand-up comedy where comic duos split along the lines of a straight man (tsukommi) and a funny guy (boke) rattle through a series of one-liners and rambling tales.

photo: Rob Goss

Although the performances are in Japanese and the theatres tend not to provide any English assistance as tourists rarely visit, Japanese comedy has many visual aspects to it and catching a manzai performance is highly recommended.

Rakugo, a traditional form of storytelling, would be harder to enjoy without some understanding of Japanese, but going to one of the many one-man (or one-woman) shows around Rokku Broadway still offers up the chance to see the locals in the audience shed their famous and somewhat unfair reputation for stoicism for an hour or two.

Situated across the street from the police box on Broadway, Asakusa Entertainment Hall (Engei Hall) is a good option for anyone who wants to take in a show. The theatre opens from 1140 a.m. to 9 p.m. and includes manzai, rakugo and magic shows among its performances. 2,500 yen will get you a ticket that covers a full day of shows.

photo: Rob Goss

Where the restaurant industry shops
Just in case you feel like buying a plastic or wax model of your favourite Japanese food, move further away from Senso-ji and on to the other side of the Asakusa Tsukuba Express Station, and have a wander up and down Kappabashi-dori. You’ll know you’re in the right neighbourhood when you come to a building with a giant chef’s head sitting on top of it!

The street that makes up Kappabashi stretches four or five blocks and is littered with somewhere in the region of 150 shops dedicated to providing Tokyo’s restaurant industry with everything it might need - everything that is bar food. Besides the wax food for window displays, there are shops specializing in everything from the red lanterns that hang outside many bars and restaurant to simple utensils and pots and pans.

For souvenir shopping, Kappabashi is simply unbeatable, and if you want lacquer ware or pottery without paying tourist prices, it’s one of the best places to go in Tokyo. For quirkier reminders of your trip to Japan, the area also does a roaring trade in sushi chef outfits, neon signs, menu boards, and a host of other items you will probably never really need.

Saying goodbye to Asakusa
Once you are done in Kappabashi, the options are to go back from where you came to the Senso-ji area or head to the southern end of Kappabashi-dori to Tawaramachi Station, from where you can catch the Ginza Line into central Tokyo or one stop back to Asakusa Station. Going back to Senso-ji and then a few hundred metres further on to the river bank gives you the option of heading out of Asakusa in style on one of the sightseeing boats that ply between Asakusa and Odaiba. Not a bad way to finish a day out, sailing off into the sunset with Asakusa fading into the distance.