cherry blossom

photo: Carolyn Todd
Heian Shinto Shrine honours the first and last Emperors based in Kyoto: Kammu and Komei, and is the spiritual centre of Japan.

Emperor Kammu established the Heian Capital (former name of Kyoto) in 794 AD and was deified as the spiritual god-cum-protector of the city in 1895, the 1100th anniversary of the founding of the city.

Emperor Komei was concerned for the welfare of the Japanese people and paved the way for the development of modern Japan in the Meiji-era (1868-1912). He was deified at Heian Shrine in 1940, when the shrine was renovated and extended. Heian Shrine itself covers a huge area and some of the buildings are replicas of the Kyoto Imperial Palace buildings, but two thirds the size. The large red entrance ‘tori’ gate stands 24 m., one of the biggest in Japan.

Heian Shrine is also a focus of one of the main festivals of Kyoto, Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Ages), which takes place on October 22nd each year to commemorate the establishment of Kyoto on that date in 794 AD. Around 2000 participants, dressed in costumes from the Heian period through to the time Kyoto ceased to be capital at the end of the Edo period, parade through the city from Kyoto Imperial Palace to Heian Shrine. They accompany the portable shrines enshrining the first and last Kyoto Emperors; those honoured by the construction of Heian Shrine.

In spring, Heian Shrine is a popular location for viewing weeping cherry trees, which can be seen in the South Garden. This is designed in the Heian style for hosting garden parties and composing traditional poetry. The cherry blossom season is followed by periods in which azalea and clover take centre stage.

Summer in the West Garden is highlighted by irises surrounding the pond, with a tea ceremony house nestled among the trees. In the East Garden, old-style buildings, previously located at Kyoto Imperial Palace, can be seen reflected in the central pond. The Middle Garden also contains a pond - one with stepping stones formed from the foundation pillars of old Kyoto bridges.

Access: from JR Kyoto Station: Bus 5 to Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsu-kan Mae / a 10 min. walk from Higashiyama Station on the Tozai Subway Line / a 15 min. walk from the Keihan Railway: Sanjo Station

Entry – free but a 600 yen charge applies for access to the gardens

For more information: http://www.heianjingu.or.jp/index_e.html

photo: Carolyn Todd
Kiyomizu-dera (lit: Clear Water) Buddhist temple is a World Heritage Site and is one of the most familiar and popular sites in the south east portion of Kyoto. It was established in 798 AD but has been rebuilt several times, most recently in 1633, and is named after a waterfall on the site. The water bubbling forth from this waterfall is drunk by visitors hoping for a long, healthy life and success in their studies.

The main structure of the temple features an extensive wooden veranda that juts out over the valley below, offering expansive views of the city and surrounding hills.

In days of old, there was a ‘tradition’ that said anyone jumping off this veranda – and surviving the 13 m. drop – would have any wish granted, but this activity is now prohibited.

However, the veranda remains very popular during the spring cherry blossom and the autumn maple seasons for the wonderful colours that break out on the nearby hills and valley. During these periods, the temple is open in the evening and the foliage is illuminated.

photo: Carolyn Todd

The Kiyomizu-dera complex is also popular with the lovelorn, as it features two ‘love stones’ placed 18 m apart. It is said that if you can walk between these two stones with your eyes closed, you will find love yourself. If you need guidance, then you will only find love through an intermediary.

The site also features a 3-storey pagoda, built in the hope of safe and easy childbirth, next to which is an underground walkway that leads to a lucky stone to make a wish. The twist is that the stairs and pathway, along which you must walk barefoot, are in complete and total darkness and you must feel your way with a rope. This is an interesting sensory experience if you’re lucky to be there on a quiet day, but at weekends and popular periods, it can feel as if you’re in a chain gang surrounded by squealing girls.

The temple is best accessed by way of a 15-minute walk up the Higashiyama Hills through a warren of lanes lined with traditional shops, restaurants and souvenir shops. This area is famous for the locally produced Kiyomizu pottery and a range of styles and prices are available. Visitors can even try their hand at the potter’s wheel.

Coming down the hill after your visit to Kiyomizu-dera, these traditional cobbled lanes can be followed north towards Yasaka Shrine, passing Kodai-ji Temple, another one illuminated during the cherry blossom season and one known for its superb views of neighbouring shrines as well as the 24 m. high Ryozen Temple Kannon statue, which was built as a memorial to the victims of World War 2.

During cherry blossom season, the lanes and their traditional wooden houses are lined with lanterns, creating an atmosphere evocative of times past.

Behind Yasaka Shrine is Maruyama Park, yet another a popular spot in the cherry blossom season for its huge weeping cherry tree, which is illuminated at night and is surrounded by food and drink stands catering to cherry blossom viewing parties.

Access: Kiyomizu-dera: Bus 206 or 100 from Kyoto Station to Kiyomizu-michi or Gojozaka stop. Walk for 15 mins up the hill.

Entry: 300 yen

photo: Carolyn Todd