Now in full swing, and operating out of the Akihabara UDX building near JR Akihabara Station (access JR and subway lines), the Tokyo Anime Centre should feature prominently on any visiting anime fan’s schedule of things to do – places to go.

The centre itself occupies a relatively small shop like area on the ‘second’ floor of the UDX building if accessed from the escalators almost all visitors use, is user friendly, has loads of handouts in English, Korean and Chinese and loads more in Nihongo – the local tongue.

Having your pic taken with the colourful, ‘well proportioned’ characters lining the walls (pictured herein), watching one of the films on the large screen or just bimbling about the shop to the rear of the centre are all easy ways to lose track of time – and there is never a shortage of folk willing to do so.

For the older folks out there – or the kids unaware of how their cartoon heroes were brought into this world - give the games by the door a crack and understand just how the anime industry works from the grass roots up.

Anime geeks too need not feel left out as there are more than enough oddities – the 1970s style Yakult Atoms baseball shirts included – in the shop to keep the most ‘demanding’ of bedroom dwellers making a rare tip outside more than happy; mini-figurines of reclining girls in bikinis, cuddly multi-function toys and a whole range of other things you will never use again!

The Tokyo Shitamachi Bus service runs between Tokyo Station and Ryogoku, stopping at the popular sightseeing spots of Nihonbashi, Akihabara, Ueno, Kappabashi, and Asakusa on route. And, although the buses don’t have guides, they do feature voice and monitor systems that give announcements in four languages: Japanese, English, Korean, and Chinese.

The buses depart from the North Marunouchi exit of Tokyo Station and in front of Ryogoku JR Station every 30 minutes from 9am until after 6pm. Single fares for adults are 200 yen, a day pass - 500 yen.

How to use the bus

For the uninitiated, using a bus in Japan can be confusing at best. Here are some tips that should help make it easier.

For the uninitiated, using a bus in Japan can be confusing at best. Here are some tips that should help make it easier.

At stops other than the terminals, be warned that buses typically only stop if someone wants to get off, or if the driver can see someone waiting. Flag them down to be sure.

When boarding the Shitamachi Bus, use the front door and then drop your 200 yen in the large slot on top of the machine next to the driver. There are separate slots for 500 yen coins or 1,000 notes on the side of the machine if you don’t have the exact fare.

To let the driver know you want to get off at the next stop, press the “stop” button near your seat (usually on the pole next to the seat, or next to the window). Use the large doors in the centre of the bus when leaving.

Access is best achieved from the Electric Town Exit of JR Akihabara Station. Turn right as you leave the station, walk a good 50 or so metres and Kotobukiya will loom green and clean on the left. Nestled in amongst all he neon signs advertising stores specializing in electrical items, the store first comes across as something of an oasis in a sea of noise, but appearances can be deceiving.

As home to cigarette lighters in the shape of crab claws, miniature girly type idols, teddy bear like things to hug, odd drinks to chug, odder things to wear, and a massive range of mini-stickers poking fun at many of the world’s major companies (PEPSI becoming PE*IS just one fine red, while and blue example), Kotobukiya can easily, and then some, satisfy the weirdest / most discerning of tastes.

Of course, if still peckish for touristy oddities and whacko souvenirs for the folks back home, why not aim at the mobile phone straps in all shapes and sizes – many tiny versions of everyday Japanese food items; from the slice of pork seen atop ramen noodles, to the deep fried shrimp so common in tempura dishes. If Kotobukiya still fails to satisfy, you have issues, and are far too normal! Enjoy!

NB – for fans of the Kotobukiya mentality stateside – head to www.kotous.com/ to see what all the fuss is about. Those with Japanese language skills can head over to www.kotobukiya.co.jp/

Of course, were the homeless man in question (for how many homeless women have you ever really seen) Japanese by birth, that list of dreamy desirables would undoubtedly include such staples as udon (thick white noodles), oden (a kind of all in one boiled collection of fish paste balls, various veggies and even sausages), and perhaps tonjiru – a kind of veggie / meat filled broth usually seen in the winter months but available year round at some of the cheaper fast food outlets scattered around town.

In few, if any of the dreams these homeless guys have in common, would any of the above be served cold – with the possible exception of the noodles – and only then during the very hot summer months primarily in and around the Kansai district of Japan!

Oddly though, this is exactly how the vast majority of vending machines found in Akihabara – and almost exclusively in Akihabara – which says something, serve up these much adored Japanese staples – IN A CAN!!!

Yes – I said IN A CAN!!! And to make matters worse, much worse, the vast majority of these offerings are currently SERVED COLD!! Yes – I know that is the second time I have said that, but SERVED COLD?!?

Don’t get me wrong (entirely!), Akihabara, is many things to many folk but, pulleeeeze – get a grip Akiba regulars. This is obscene – don’t do it, please don’t do it! Do not eat his stuff! Your mother would never forgive you!

Of course, whilst on the proverbial orange box covering this Akiba generated issue of the unpalatable and unmentionable, let’s not forget the drinks. Yes, the regular vending machine offerings are served always on offer, but curry / wasabi* / takoyaki* flavored ‘ramune’* anyone?

Nope? Thought not!

- Takoyaki are dough balls with chopped vegetables mixed in and served with a small chunk of octopus (tako) at the centre – popular all over Japan but particularly so in the Kansai area.

- Wasabi is the root of the horseradish plant – green, oftentimes very potent, and usually seen served as a condiment with sashimi or between fish and rice in sushi.

- Ramune is a fizzy drink loosely based on lemonade – first produced by a Scottish doctor in Kobe back in the late 19th century.

Although on arrival Akihabara seems very much 21st century, there is another side to this bustling town, where remnants of its varied past can be found away from the main streets and squares.

Next to the Electric Town Exit, under the tracks of the JR Sobu Line, two floors of stalls clustered together date back to just after the Second World War (1939-1945). This was the centre of a black market in electrical equipment parts, and the birthplace of today’s Electric Town. That past is still recognizable, and still each tiny stall has its own particular speciality.

On entering you find yourself confronted by massed ranks of batteries, wire, chips, fuses, switches, light bulbs, plugs, you name it. The rough and ready market feel of the place giving you a taste of what it would have been like in those less prosperous post-war times.

The Kanda River flows through Akihabara, and it is near the river that a lot of the area’s history can be found. Turn right after you come through the ticket gate at the Electric town exit, then go straight till you reach Sotobori Dori and you will find the river. To your left is Izuma Bashi Bridge. Just before the bridge is an area called Kando Sakomacho 1-chome, now a park, surrounded by cheap bars and restaurants, where Akihabarites in all shapes and forms gather. In the Edo-era (1603-1867) it served a very different purpose, as an area populated by lumber merchants selling firewood.

The street that runs adjacent to Sotobori Dori, on the other side of the Kanda River, Yanagihara Dori, contains a number of buildings from a more recent past, the Taisho-era (1912-1926). The ageing facades of these decorated, Western-style Taisho houses stand in marked contrast to the featureless office blocks that now surround them.

Further along the street, another building from that period is still open for business. The family run ‘Okaju Button’ shop sells materials, thread, buttons, cufflinks - anything connected to suit making. If the interior isn’t enough to make you feel you have stepped backed in time, the sight of the aging shop owner using an abacus behind the counter will. Hard to believe that you are in a town widely regarded as the high-tech centre of the universe

Moving down Yanagihara dori, on the opposite side, you will find Yanagi Mori Shrine. Actually, more of a collection of shrines which were moved here from different parts of Tokyo, meaning that you can find different deities sitting side by side, in one corner, you have a sculpted tanuki (raccoon) – his swollen testicles representing power and prosperity, and in another, the fox gods of the Inari Shinto sect.

The shrine complex, shaded by trees, overlooks the river and provides perfect respite from the hustle of Akihabara. Near the entrance, there are a number of large stones with Chinese characters written on them. These ‘Chikaraishi,’ one bearing the date 1912, were once used as weights by sumo wrestlers to help build up their strength.

If you continue walking in the same direction along the river, at roughly 15-20 minute intervals, you will first pass Mansei Bridge and then Shouhei Bridge. It is best to cross to the other side of the river at Mansei Bridge and walk along Sotobori Dori to get to Shouhei Bridge. This bridge is located on what used to be one of the five major Edo period highways, this one linking Nikko with Edo then Kyoto.

The area was once home to many small inns, ‘Hataga,’ where travellers would stay during this period. Nowadays, there are no inns left, but just next to the bridge, the small counter restaurant ‘Maguro-tei’ has a traditional feel and is not a bad place to stop for lunch, offering raw tuna and rice; ‘Maguro-don,’ dishes for 600-800 yen.

From here, you may hear the beating of drums. A few doors up from the restaurant, on Sotobori Dori the Taiko drum school, Oedo Sukeroku Tokyo, offers lessons to foreigners and also the chance to participate in a local festival as a drummer. The teacher can speak some English, and is usually happy to explain a little about taiko if you feel like dropping by. Their web site, www.oedosukerokutaiko.com, also has information in English.

Continuing on the Sotobori side of the river, after a 10 -15 minute walk you will find the impressive Chinese form Yushima Seido Shrine.Originally located in Ueno Park where the statue of Saigo Takamori now stands, it moved here in 1691 with the purpose of promoting the study of Confucianism, and in the pleasant garden of the shrine complex, you will find the world’s biggest statue of the great man. Like most Japanese shrines, a lot of it has been rebuilt, but older parts remain – such as the gate leading to the shrine, built in 1704. The shrine building itself combines the simplicity of Japanese buildings with a more decorative Chinese feel - above the plain black varnished walls, fierce-looking sculpted dragons and lions look down. After the shrine moved to its present location it became a centre for the study of Confucian classics. Confucianism became popular in Japan in the 18th century, offering an intellectualism lacking in traditional Japanese Shinto. (Akihabara walk pic #3)Because of the educational associations of the shrine, it is popular with students who come to pray for success in exams and wooden ‘ema’ plaques on display are inscribed with those wishes.

Yushima Seido brings you nearer to the area of Ochanomizu which we will cover in a future issue, and it is a short train ride back to Akihabara from here. If you are still keen to discover more, the towering dome that you can see from the grounds of Yushima Seido belongs to the Meiji-era (1868-1912) built St Nikolai Russian Cathedral, and offers a good chance to see another part of Japan’s varied history.

Akihabara’s association with electronics began with the black market trading of radios and radio components that rose out of the ashes of World War Two. The small stalls that then gathered around Akihabara station and initially catered to students at the nearby electrical college (present-day Tokyo Denki University) formed the heart of what is now known as “Electric Town” － Japan’s preeminent area for things electrical.

By the 1960s and the advent of electrical consumer goods, Akihabara’s wireless stalls competed for space with stores selling TVs, washing machines and other household luxuries of the time. By the 1980s, Electric Town was riding the wave of home computing as a place to buy both hardware and the latest games, while in the past decade or so Akihabara has also added PCs and manga and anime-related products to its repertoire. If you want something electrical and can’t find it in Akihabara, chances are it hasn’t been invented yet.

Duty free electronics and backstreet bargains
A stroll around Akihabara on a Sunday afternoon will probably bring you together with more nationalities than any other part of Tokyo, and the reason is simple － the duty free shops.

After fighting your way passed the crowds of cosplayers and maid café staff handing out flyers by the Electric Town exit (not to mention the amateur photographers taking “glamour” shots of the maids), the duty free shopping begins with the block of buildings directly opposite the station that house the multi-floored Ishimaru, LAOX, Daiso Takarada Akihabara, and Akky III duty free stores.

Head right from these and onto Chuo Dori and more duty free stores loom into sight, with another couple of branches of Akky, another LAOX, and the giant Onoden.

Inside the stores the feeling is definitely international. All have staff on hand to serve customers in English, Korean and Chinese, and some stores, such as Akky, also provide Bengali, Russian and Spanish speaking staff. When it comes to stock, they are equally diverse with line-ups taking in automatic bidet toilets, high-end audio systems, hundreds of air-conditioning options, refrigerators that can record audio messages, and a whole lot more.

Price-wise the large duty free stores are certainly cheaper than airport duty free, but for real bargains you need to head away from their imposing neon facades and explore the side streets shooting off of Chuo Dori. This is where you will find smaller stores that are happy to undercut the big boys, and who are among the rare minority of places in Japan where you can actually try to barter down the price. If you can’t speak Japanese, don’t worry. Despite Japan’s reputation as the dunce of Asia when it comes to learning foreign languages, even the smaller shops tend to have some staff who can speak enough English to help you shop.

Where the locals and geeks shop
The cramped alleys by Akihabara Station in Soto-Kanda 1-chome teem with small shops and stalls specializing in items ranging from light bulbs and diodes to walkie-talkies and security cameras. Admittedly there is not much in 1-chome that will have most tourists reaching for their credit cards (good thing, too, as many of the stalls run on cash only), but the two floors of stalls are certainly worth a wander around as a bit of a throwback to how Akihabara was when electronics first came to the area.

The narrow backstreets on the other side of Chuo Dori from 1-chome (Soto-Kanda 3-chome) are where PC enthusiasts go to pick up parts and accessories, so perhaps it is no surprise this is also where most of the computer game shops are to be found. The particular specialty that has proved popular here in recent years, besides the animation tie-ins, are the dating simulation games designed for the stereotypically lank-haired and socially-inept anime and manga fanatics who in the past decade have added a new dimension to Akihabara in making it the Mecca for all things geeky.

To experience a little of that otaku culture for yourself, take a wander through the comic stores and costume shops on and around Chuo Dori. While some of the shops are oriented at adult entertainment and probably not the best place to take your mother, most, like the large Donkihote, are open to all.

Although quite a few of the adult items do come with batteries at Donkihote (as in Don Quixote spelled badly), the place isn’t just about electronics and electrical items.

Adult floor aside, this is the place to pick up something seriously silly to take home. Something like a samurai wig or sumo outfit, or even an adult-sized school uniform or lamp stand disguised as a French maid’s stocking-clad legs. Classy it is not, entertaining it certainly is, and like the rest of the stores in Akihabara Donkihote does have some good deals.

When you leave her, walk away and contemplate any conversation or chat you may have just shared, those words evaporate with the speed of a politician’s pre-election promises; replaced by determined, insightful, and perhaps above all – fun-loving.

Aged just 25, Jane, a tall, slim Singaporean national and native English speaker, has been in Japan just 3 and a half years. She arrived as a student, already speaks the language (in addition to Chinese, and a smattering of Thai, German, Cantonese and Taiwanese) and, for good measure is CEO of the self titled Gi-jANE Global Enterprises.

But just what is it that makes this bundle of South East Asian energy tick? What is it that pushes her to the fringes of Japanese society in her other persona as Jane in cosplay, as CEO of her own company when out of the public glare?

Tokyo Explorer’s Ed, Mark Buckton sat down with Jane recently to try and find out.

TE – Tokyo Explorer /GJ– Jane Fong

TE: Please tell our readers five things about Gi-jANE, Jane Fong.

GJ: (laughing) Five things about me? OK, I like cosplay, I come from Singapore, I’m an entrepreneur, I’m a foreigner in Japan, and I’m a girl.

TE: How long have you been in Japan?

GJ: About three and a half years if you put everything together. I come and go.

TE: Why do you speak such good Japanese?

GJ: I have lots of Japanese friends here and I started learning Japanese in my second year of university, but I wasn’t serious back then. (Then) I came to Japan as an exchange student and that’s when I felt I really need to master the language to communicate with the local people.

TE: What image of Japan do Singaporeans have?

GJ: It’s a good image because there are lots of Japanese people (in Singapore) and we have access to Japanese drama (on TV), large Japanese stores such as Kinokuniya and Daimaru, so we are very much exposed to the Japanese culture. A lot of us grew up watching Japanese TV. Animation too, Sailor Moon was popular.

TE: What about music? Is Japanese music popular?

GJ: Yeah, music is really popular. (Japanese music) is still considered ‘niche’ music, but when I was a teenager about 10-years ago, I listened to a lot of Japanese music.

TE: Why did you set up shop in Japan, in Tokyo?

GJ: Well, I’ve always know that I’m supposed to be an entrepreneur, and I was supposed to do my MBA…..(looks pensive)

TE: However, …?

GJ: However, I gave it up. I had a scholarship to do my Master’s in Japan, and, I don’t know if this is politically correct, but the education system in Japan is not that good, so while I was still on the pre-study language course, I gave it up.

TE: Which university?

GJ: It wasn’t set in stone, but the problem was studying Japanese before entering the university. I had to study JLPT 2 (Japanese Language Proficiency Test 2) and ‘make friends’ (gestures) when I already had JLPT 1, so I was, like, completely bored. Then I managed to negotiate a position on a university course – I didn’t care where – and I chose Sophia University. I went to classes there for one semester, but the conditions still depended upon me attending both language school and university which was quite stupid. So, I decided to give up my scholarship and start my own business.

TE: You have hair! (at which point Jane’s face finds a few creases – clearly wondering where this is going) That said, the image of Gi-jANE in the movie starring Demi Moore is of a woman with no hair.

GJ: (laughs again) Well, because she’s a GI!

TE: But why the name Gi-jANE?

GJ: Ah, OK. Well, I have lots of advisors – a lot of entrepreneurs and CEOs (here) in Japan. One of them is the boss of Digital Hollywood University, and he happens to be into military related concepts, and when I started the company, I asked him for advice on the name because he is a wonderful producer, and since this company will be in Japan, it has to be a name Japanese people will like, something memorable. There are so many company names I forget, but when you introduce yourself and say Gi-jANE no Jane desu, they will remember.

TE: Would you shave your head?

GJ: No, I want my hair.

TE: Any problems setting up the company?

GJ: There were lots of obstacles but I had already anticipated them, so I wasn’t surprised. In fact, it wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be because I’m kinda weird. If I don’t have any challenges, I’ll get bored so I enjoy looking for the challenges, for difficulties. Weird hey?

TE: Have you ever thought about joining the (Singaporean) military yourself?

GJ: Mmmmm, no, women don’t have to join like men (in Singapore). Men join for about 2-years but I’d prefer having to use my brain than my body. That said, I do like to strategize and to ‘wage war.’

TE: To wage war?

GJ: Yeah, the battlefield is kind of like the business field. You know Sun Tzu – his famous book “Art of War” has been written in a business context and teaches you how to apply those ideas in business. I love doing business – it is like a game.

TE: What has been the biggest challenge?

GJ: Finding the right people to employ.

TE: How do you do that?

GJ: The company has to have a good vision. Of course a good leader (too) with a vision that people want to be a part of and feel excited (about) when they hear (that vision).

TE: How many people do you have working for you now?

GJ: About six to eight. We are restructuring right now. For example, my IT people used to number three but I got rid of two and I am going to outsource most of my IT work to a Chinese company over in China. Generally most of the staff are freelancers, writers etc. They don’t always have to be in the office.

TE: Any problems with other foreign people in Japan - oftentimes the foreign community can get jealous of other foreign people succeeding?

GJ: I don’t really hang out with foreigners much, and I don’t really work with foreigners either.

TE: You have the popular Akihabara tour, but recently the government of Japan has introduced rules that limit the operators of ‘tours’ to those with special licences. Have you been affected by that legislation?

GJ: No, we don’t operate tours per-se; we offer simulations in a voluntary form.

TE: Do you call your staff ‘guides’?

GJ: No, and we don’t call ourselves a tour agency or anything like that, and we don’t advertise. We don’t actually consider the tours a business, more for fun. (That said) now things are changing because there is so much demand. So, in order to (meet that demand) we (will) have to do it properly.

TE: Do you actually like Akihabara?

GJ: Of course, I love Akihabara, and I think this place is very suitable for me because it changes all the time so I think this is a place I could not become sick of.

TE: Let me ask you about Jane Fong the woman – not Jane Fong the Akiba entrepreneur – what do you do when you are not working? Any hobbies?

GJ: I cosplay! (shows pics of her recent cosplay appearances) I like travel too.

TE: Who did you admire when growing up?

GJ: No-one. I don’t have any idols.

TE: Where does your imagination come from then – in creating your own company, your own niche in Japanese society?

GJ: I was an only child until the age of 17, so I had lots of time alone. So, I guess that time alone somehow stimulated my imagination.

TE: There has been some trouble in the past few weeks in Akihabara – a woman displaying a little too much ‘skin’ for example. I understand the police have stopped some of the street performances, but have you been affected?

GJ: Yes, kind of. I was in cosplay then. But it is all because of Asuka Sawamoto, the girl who lifted up her legs to show of her ‘butt’ and all the people surrounded her and started taking pictures. That became big news.

TE: Do you know her well?

GJ: No, but she is always in Akihabara. In the past, people were able to actually perform in the streets. Nobody complained. But then, because of her (Sawamoto), the public are complaining and blaming the police for being too lenient, so they have become stricter.

TE: Will the police clampdown fade away as they so often do in Japan?

GJ: We hope so, but Sawamoto will not come back – that is for sure. That made huge headlines. She became famous overnight.

TE: If you could be born again – in the past, present or future, which era would you like to make an appearance in?

GJ: I’d like to be born in the future I guess. I always think that I belong to the future.

TE: In Japan?

GJ: Hmmm, yeah?

TE: Imagine yourself aged around 50. Where do you want to settle?

GJ: Somewhere near the sea.

TE: Which country?

GJ: I don’t think I can stay put in any one place. I think I’ll always be moving around.

TE: Last Q for you Jane, and the one you will be judged on by our readers – give me an adjective for the average guy seen hanging around in Akihabara – my own printable adjective being ‘sad.’

GJ: (Laughs, thinks, frowns) Obsessed. They have their own kind of fantasy world and I also like to create my own world, but I’m not obsessed – that is the only difference. (grins)

GI jane web - http://gijane.jp

Akibanana - http://akibanana.com

Akihabara - the geek capital of the universe - full of saddos taking pics of young girls in maid outfits - and the girls let them! (only ‘cos they get paid)Psychological prostitution is what one guide book once called this kind of thing. Filling a niche perhaps? All round weird if you ask me. Oh, the girls themselves work in these cafes where they serve said whackos drinks, act all cute, play rock, paper, scissors - then likely go home and throw up!

The opening of that first maid café in 2001 unleashed a trend that has since seen approximately 30 more maid cafes open in Akihabara alone, not to mention spin-offs running the gamut from maid hair salons to maid foot massage and more recently “butler cafes” designed with a female clientele in mind.

The success of maid cafes is a small but highly recognizable part of the continued growth of the country’s otaku consumer market, a market comprised of 1.72 million consumers and worth 411 billion yen annually according to the most recent research conducted by the Nomura Research Institute in October 2005. But why all the fuss about themed cafés with generally overpriced fare where the staff call you ‘master,’ flirt a bit and occasionally spoon feed the customers?

For social commentator Tomoko Inukai the answer is simple – the rise of maid cafés is down to “the fetish for young women among Japanese men,” and the cafes’ ability to “offer a chance for men often oppressed in their daily life to escape into a fantasy world.” So, have these cafes simply tapped in on the desires of a generation of socially inept males seeking to fill the female voids in their lives with the company of innocent-looking and servile young women? There might be more to it than that.

photo: Rob GossAt Cure Maid Café where it all began, manager Katsunori Hazama suggests it is less about male sexual fantasy and more about relaxation. “Our shop’s concept is Iyashi (healing), so we offer organic tea, gardening, relaxing music, and a cosy space where customers can relax,” he says. “We don’t have any over-the-top games,” although a lot of cafes do give customers the option of playing janken (Rock-Paper-Scissors) and other games with their maids at a cost.

Relaxation and comfort is a far cry from the somewhat sleazy image maid cafés have been given in the media, but Hazama’s reasoning that they serve as a place to unwind is echoed by Sakurai at another Akihabara café, CosCha, where janken is on the menu. “The main reason people like maid cafes is that the distance between staff and customers differs from normal cafés,” Sakurai says. “Familiar shop, familiar faces, chatting in a cosy atmosphere - we think this is one reason why customers keep coming back.”

If men are into maid cafes for reasons of escapism, relaxation or self-indulgence, what about female customers? Although the majority of customers are men in their 20s and 30s, the number of women visiting maid cafes is continuing to rise.

“Recently we have a lot of female customers,” says Cure Maid’s Hazama, “About 35 percent.” That figure is not uncommon, and in maid cafes across Akihabara calls of “welcome home, mistress” are increasingly heard alongside the familiar “welcome home, master” - the maid café answer to the traditional welcoming call of Japanese shops and restaurants, “irrashaimase.”

To understand why women have taken to a fad apparently targeted at young men is in part to understand why women are queuing up to work as maids. And queuing up they are. At Mia Café, Hiroyasu Terajima says somewhere between 300 and 500 women apply for each job vacancy on the back of seeking something more glamorous than a run of the mill job, and yet being realistic. “I think compared to hoping to be a stewardess or TV announcer, becoming a maid is more attainable,” he says.

Of course, just as not everyone who works at Disney is a Disney fanatic, not every maid is an otaku. Moe from Mia Café, every inch the epitome of the maid image with her black and white pinafore, big dark eyes and hair draped around her face, is adamant about that. “It’s just a normal part-time job,” she says explaining that she found it by chance while looking for part-time work. “Whether people work at Disneyland or at a maid café, it’s just work.”

That may be disappointing for a diehard otaku to hear, but it is a sign that maid cafes and the otaku they were designed to serve are becoming more and more mainstream. As the media begins painting otaku in a sympathetic light and as the image of otaku as kind-hearted introverts like the character Tsuyoshi Yamada in Densha Otoko begins to replace that of the sad loner, cafes that were once an otaku domain are now very much open to the public – just like any other theme restaurant.

Rob Goss