When Japanese forces attacked Russian ships at Port Arthur in 1904, they did so under the command of Admiral Heihachiro Togo.

As a man of the sea, Togo has no equal in Japanese naval history; a fact the small shrine sandwiched between Meiji Jingu and the up-market Aoyama area tends to belie.

First built in 1940, several years after Togo’s death, it contains the now deified spirit of the former Admiral – his actual grave being in Western Tokyo.

The grounds also contain a little museum and also a bookshop focusing on the life and times of the man trained in the UK, a true servant of Japan; both his son and his grandson also giving their lives in the service of the nation.

Each month, rain or shine (and nicer when it shines) two flea markets are held – usually on the first and fourth Sundays – each event attracting many tens of vendors specialising in antiques.

Things do get going early – often before sunrise on winter mornings so get along early and try and pick up a bargain.

We’ve all been there – goal within sight, mood right, and then the realization sinks in – we just don’t have the ‘protection’ needed to make sure we don’t take home, or leave behind an unwanted souvenir from a one-off night of passion.

Well, fear no more – for nowhere else in Japan is there a more famous shop aimed at kitting you out in all your protected glory than Condomania.

Sat proudly erect on the corner of Omotesando and Meiji-dori on the run up to Meiji Shrine, the brightly coloured ‘skin shop’ is nothing if not open about the reason for its existence.

Selling man’s best friend in a range of sizes, colours, textures and even flavors, as well as more lotions, toys, creams and sprays than you could shake the proverbial stick at, this relatively small outlet is nothing if not noticeable – and it is never empty!

Interestingly, purchases don’t seem to take place that often though – the embarrassment factor likely responsible for that step too far, but customers, like the contents, come in all shapes, sizes, colours and, presumably flavors!

For those in the market for a purchase, but for whom the publicity might prove a tad off-putting, the shop does have a great online page; albeit in Japanese.

Listing, and with pictures of everything in stock, the page not only explains the items the punters are offered, but also takes online orders should the ladies behind the counter prove too much.

Add to this a page showing the latest rankings of items sold – at time of typing the ‘Ultra Large’ version topping the bill, with ‘Choco Magic’ trailing down in fourth! – and if nothing else, a trip to this colourful corner of Meiji-dori and Omotesando should stay long in the memory banks.

Get along, get equipped, and get back on the job.

Link: http://condomania.jp/

The Meiji Jingu Treasure Museum is situated in the grounds of the main Meiji Jingu Shrine, a short walk from the main shrine buildings and approach.

A single storey concrete building dating back to 1921, but apparently constructed in the Oyukazukuri style of the much earlier State Treasure House in the city of Nara, near Osaka, the building does, at first appear to be at least two floors in height.

Within its walls are to be found a number of artifacts related to the　1868-1912 reign of the Meiji Emperor and his wife.

Of perhaps the most interest to the average visitor, however, is the horse drawn carriage used by the imperial couple on official travel in the late 19th and early 20th centuries; a black and red, gold trimmed affair that would not look out of place in any of the European capitals in the Middle Ages.

Although at least one famous English language guidebook passes the museum off as “pretty unexciting“, chances to view the lives of Japan’s imperial family up close and in person, come few and far between – perhaps the only other regular opportunity in Tokyo the museum in the outer gardens of the Imperial Palace proper – making this a museum not to miss for those interested in either the nation’s imperial lineage or, in particular, the Meiji-era named after the Emperor himself.

NB: A small entrance fee does apply, and the museum is closed on the third Friday each month, otherwise it is open daily from 09:00 - 16:30.

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Situated prominently atop one of the side streets off Omotesando is an advertising board of sorts.

Smack bang middle in the centre is the fashion brand name Fcuk You.

Now, not being much of a fashion king myself, that certainly gave me something of a shock when I first saw it!

That was, until I realized that Omotesando is about shock, it is about people being noticed, yet it is about so much more than the main drag.

Given, the top dogs advertise for all they are worth on the main Omotesando approach to Meiji Jingu, but it is behind the main thoroughfare that the real action can be seen. This is where the locals live, where the smaller restaurants and bars – as well as numerous boutiques – position themselves to carry off some of the more discerning shoppers less bent on brand collection.

Pick a (side) street next time you are on Omotesando then, any street will do. Take a walk down it and lose yourself in the maze of turnings beckoning you deeper and deeper into the inner recesses of on of Japan’s well known but less crowded gems; the backstreets of Omotesando.

Head down towards Shibuya or up towards Gaienmae – by first going under the Fcuk You sign and kick back a tad. The pace is slower. The onus is less on being seen, and more on the self.

Step into a café, order the house white or whatever else you fancy, and get as close to any suave European capital as it is possible to get here in Tokyo.

Fcuk you indeed!

October Events

keep checking back for updates on new events throughout the current month

Culture / Festivals

October is a rather quiet month, with many heading to the hills near Tokyo to do some early autumn hiking. The one very interesting festival of the month, however, is listed below.

Ikegami Honmonji O Eshiki

Oct 11th~13th Ikegami Honmon-ji Temple (Ota-ku, South Tokyo)

Museums

Mori Art Museum – (Roppongi)

Thru Nov 3rd – Annette Messager – The Messengers

The National Museum of Modern Art – (Takebashi)

Thru Oct 13th – A Perspective on Contemporary Art 6:
Emotional Drawing // Between the Wall and the Ground

Bridgestone Museum of Art (Tokyo)

Thru Oct 19th – From impressionism to Abstract Paintings

Tokyo National Museum (Ueno)

Thru November 30th – Cultural Treasures of Sri Lanka

Stage

Kabuki  - Kabuki-za (Ginza)

2 - 26 October 2008

Several matinee and evening shows will be performed around the nation – the most prominent in Tokyo at the Kabuki-za in Higashi Ginza.

Shows include

Fuji Musume – the famed dance of a young maiden around a wisteria tree – the same play performed by Ichikawa Ebizo in Paris in early 2007.
Other famous names include; Bando Tamasaburo, Onoe Kikugoro, Nakamura Shikan, and Ichikawa Sadanji

Sport

Football

4th – (Todoroki Stadium) Kawasaki VS Oita Trinita
4th – (Ajinomoto Stadium) FC Tokyo VS Shimizu S. Pulse
18th – (Saitama Stadium) Urawa Reds VS Kobe
18th – (Ajinomoto Stadium) Tokyo Verdy VS Omiya
19th – (Nissan Stadium) Yokohama F Marinos VS Nagoya Grampus
25th – (Ajinomoto Stadium) FC Tokyo VS Kashima Antlers
25th – (Kashiwa Stadium) Kashiwa Reysol VS Yokohama F Marinos
26th – (Todoroki Stadium) Kawasaki VS Sapporo

Baseball – (various stadiums)

Japanese Central (Swallows / Giants / Baystars) and Pacific League (Marines / Lions) baseball games are now coming to a close – the season ending Japan Series to be determined by teams not yet decided. Keep an eye on the domestic English language newspapers for the most up to date information and check English language Japanese media listings for exact game schedules.

•    tickets for all of the above events / sports and theatrical performances can be obtained from convenience stores and / or recognized ticket agencies.

The entire Japanese language is made up of 101 syllables?

The Inazo Nitobe book Bushido, was penned in English – the Japanese language translation coming later?

Mount Fuji last erupted in 1707 and is now dormant, as opposed to extinct?

Japan has three basketball associations!?