Whilst books, manuscripts and a thousand articles have been written trying to explain the significance of the area, the religious import to the nation etc, few ever focus on details but it is one of the ‘details’ of Koya-san to give it its Japanese name that we will look at this issue – the quite marvelous yet spiritual festival known as Mando Kuyoe.

Of the thousands of points of prayer on Koya-san, Kongobu-ji Temple and Okuno-in Temple are perhaps the two most famous.

It is at this latter facility, a place to which the Buddha will one day apparently return, accompanied by the site founder Kukkai (sometimes known as Kobo Daishi), that the annual 13th August ‘Candle Festival’ is held to commemorate ancestors now deceased.

Literally thousands of candles flicker along the dark approach to the temple giving the whole area an eerie, yet emotional feel – one to witness from a distance to best appreciate the aesthetics and so not to intrude on the feelings of believers.

Access: Koya-san is best accessed from Namba Station in Osaka on the Nankai Dentetsu Line (check local listings for timings)

Fee: a small charge is made for candles used

August 16^th will once again see the annual lighting of the huge Chinese characters or images seemingly cut into the mountains surrounding Kyoto, and for those still in the sweltering former capital come the middle of the month, here is no better way to cool off than to head down to the Kamogawa River with a six pack, perhaps a cocktail or two and some friends.

Evening time usually sees the temperature drop quite dramatically in the city centre, and the masses heading to the historical vein of Kyoto to while away the evening on the temporary balcony of a café overlooking the river. As the cool breezes blowing down from the hills offer a welcome respite from the heat of the day, to then see the distant figures slowly ignite and all of a sudden burst into flame is a view not to be missed if anywhere remotely close to the city in the summer.

The fires are usually lit at or around 20:00 as the lights of the city dip, and the black of the sky combines with the leaping flames to send thousands of embers into the night sky.

Each character or pictograph is actually a huge bonfire shaped to represent various aspects of Japan’s, and Kyoto in particular’s history.

The largest of the bonfires is around 160m in length although he majority are somewhat shorter and the actual mounds of burnable material at least as tall as a man The annual burning of the pyres dates back at least four centuries and is mentioned in documents from 1603 but other claims have the ritual going back even further to the Heian-era when they were originally used to ward off evil spirits.

Nowadays, in keeping with the disdain for most things spiritual, the event is more about entertainment and a reason to have friends get together than it is in appeasement of spirits from another world.

If in Kyoto on the 16^th, find yourself an empty chair with a view of the surrounding hills, sit back and enjoy the blaze.

For those tourists in this neck of the woods eager to escape the tourist hordes in Kyoto therefore – especially during the heat of the summer months – the good old fashioned, wind in your face bicycle rides through Nara Park and its nearby neighborhoods are the ideal way to combine the city’s nature and history; the very best method of navigating ancient city and park alike.

So, be it historical treasures you are after poking your nose into; with Kofuku-ji Temple and Todai-ji Temple (home of the huge ‘Great Buddha’) taking centre stage in Nara and Horyu-ji Temple just to the south, or perhaps an escape to nature after the concrete jungles of the Kansai or Kanto become too much, Nara has no equal to the fantastic Nara Park.

The park proper measures roughly 1.5km from north to south, and the same distance east to west at its widest point, and is best accessed from the Kyoto linked Kintetsu Nara Station. A short walk to the south, to the main Information Centre (ask for direction at the station), is the best way to find the local rent-a-cycle shops and to look at rates, time needed to cover the sights you want to see, or just to use to have a mosey around the centre of this quaint old city.

Recommended viewing in the park area will always include, Todai-ji Temple and its Daibutsu-den Hall with a 16m high depiction of the Buddha weighing in at more than 430 tons, Kofuku-ji Temple and its twin pagodas dating back to the 12th and 15th centuries respectively, as well as Kasuga Taisha Shrine. All are situated within the confines of the Nara Park but with Kofuku-ji Temple in the extreme west of the park near the train station, Todai-ji Temple in the north and Kasuga Taisha Shrine in the south-east corner, the decision to rent a bicycle will prove one of the best made whilst in the city.

The park itself dates back almost 130-years, offers numerous places to get off the bike for a while, enjoy a cool drink and take in the surroundings, and is of course very famous for its deer*, although many have become used to the presence of humans in recent years and can be overly friendly, even annoying at times.

[ Nara Park ]

Access: via the Kintetsu Line from Kyoto (30 - 50 mins depending on train used)

Fee: free of charge although charges apply when entering shrines and / or temples.

*for those making the trip in October, weekends usually sees park authorities leading a round up of the deer to remove their horns.

According to Japanese legend, the site, officially named Sakai Nintoku Burial Mound, is the grave of the Emperor Nintoku who was said to have ruled the nation 1600 years ago.

Recent research, however, and even some comments from up high in Japan on the lineage of Nintoku originating on the Korean peninsula, has led to speculation that any artifacts discovered and brought to light would upset the current delicate status-quo on national origins. For this reason, to date, no known attempts at revealing exactly what lies inside have thus far been carried out. (Photo** See below)

What is known, and going with it belonging to Nintoku for now, is that the keyhole shaped structure, a shape that is only revealed from the air, measures several hundred metres in length and perhaps another two hundred wide, is the largest such tomb in existence.

Today the tomb has lost some of its shape and is covered by trees, appearing for all intents and purposes like a small hill dropped in the centre of a sprawling landscape of homes and factories.

This is not to say a visit is not worthwhile, especially as the mercury soars, and not least of all to enjoy the chance to escape the sweltering grey jungle of Osaka in mid-summer, for if Tokyo is lacking in greenery at times, Osaka is almost devoid of it and this makes oases like Nintoku’s tomb (or whoever is in there) the perfect place to spend a hot afternoon and early evening.

Surrounded by a moat, the mound is situated a good 30 or so minute train ride from downtown Osaka in the industrial city of Sakai – a place currently known more for its knife making industries and as the birthplace of Sen-no-Rikyu – a Japanese tea master*.

Access: Mozu Station (Hanwa Line from Tennoji Station in Osaka)

Fee: no charge

* in 2010, the world’s largest solar plant, now under construction in Sakai City, will also go online.

** - Copyright held by “National Land Information (Color Aerial Photograph)), Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport”

Apparently first mentioned in Japanese literature way back in the dark days of the 8th century AD, this type of fishing involves around ten to fifteen large black birds, controlled by way of a long leash type strap held by a master fisherman and his staff.

On a given command, the birds jump into the black water near a blazing Indie Jones type torch (set in place to attract fish to the surface*), dive, then re-emerge several seconds later with slightly bulging throats.

One pulled back aboard the small wooden craft, this ‘slight bulge’ is disgorged; the contents whole, undigested sweet-fish flopping onto the deck below or into a prepared container. The bird itself is prevented from actually swallowing the fish by way of a small ring at the base of its long neck in what is, in a sense, a far more eco-friendly form of fishing than the rod, weight, line and hook forms used (and left behind) in other parts of the world.

Repeated many times each night, and particularly during the summer months – roughly June to August or September, the ‘ukai’ form of fishing is a very popular form of entertainment for locals and tourists alike: the actual fishing often just a back-drop to scenes of revelry on boats rented out for the evening by tour groups and companies out for to relax and sink a few cold ones.

Single travelers, couples and those in small groups need fear not, however, as many in the Kyoto and Gifu areas of central Japan cater to visitors on a first book, first to get a seat basis: often for around 1500-3500 yen or more, depending on the type of boat and refreshments served.

Ask at your hotel for details, or, if a longer term visitor, speak to your local tourist information counter.

* NB – ‘Ukai’ fishing is best achieved on moonless nights and normally does not take place on rainy days or the days immediately after a downpour due to water conditions being affected.

Where: Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, Osaka

Access: Sumiyoshi Taisha Station, Nankai-Dentetsu line

Cost: Free

This rice planting festival takes place at Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine in Sumiyoshi, Osaka. Rice and its cultivation are obviously a vital component of Japanese life. The ‘Otaue’ in the title refers to the process of transferring rice seedlings from nurseries and planting them out in rice paddies.

At this festival, the traditions are respected and the planting is carried out with great ceremony, from the oxen ploughing the fields to the singing and dancing by costumed women, which is said to promote the growth of the seedlings.

The event is accompanied by a parade of samurai in full ceremonial dress.

Where: Kyoto Kaikan First Hall (Okazaki, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto)

Access: Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae bus stop: bus 5, 32, 46, 100
Cost: 1st floor seats: 9000 yen; 2nd floor seats: 5000 yen

This event is unique in that it brings together maiko (geisha) drawn from all five geisha districts in Kyoto.

The 20 maiko taking part demonstrate the differences in the traditional dances of their districts in an amazing opportunity to see the famous maiko of Kyoto performing together.

Where: Kitano Tenmangu Shrine

Access: from JR Kyoto Station: bus 50, 101 (30 mins); from Shijo Kawaramachi: bus 203 (25 mins)

This is a purification rite in which a huge (5m) reed wreath is placed at the main shrine gate on the birthday of the shrine god.

It is said that people who walk through the wreath will stay healthy during the next year.

These events are held throughout the country in this season, although most of the events are on the 30th, but this is the biggest wreath in Kyoto.

Where: Various shrines, including Jishu-Jinja and Kitano Tenmangu

Access: Jishu-Jinja: Kiyomizu-michi stop: from JR Kyoto Station, bus 206 (15 mins); from Shijo Kawaramachi, bus 207 (10 mins)
Kitano Tenmangu: from JR Kyoto Station, bus 50, 101 (30 mins); from Shijo Kawaramachi, bus 203 (25 mins)

The Tanabata Festival is a star festival of love. In various countries, there are local folk stories of star-crossed lovers whose tales are remembered in the story of the lovers Vega and Altair who are separated in the sky by the Milky Way and are only permitted to meet once a year on the 7th day of the 7th month (which can be interpreted as different dates depending on your calendar).

In Japan, people write their names, maybe with that of a loved one, or hopes and wishes, on paper dolls or strips that they hang on trees in the hope of starting or maintaining a romantic relationship during the year.

Jishu-Jinja shrine in Kyoto is dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking so this is a popular location for those with romantic aspirations.

Date: May 11th and 12th

Location: Kofuku-ji Temple, Noborio-ji-cho, Nara City

Noh is a form of Japanese traditional musical theatrical drama and this festival is performed in the open air at the World Heritage Site of Kofuku-ji Temple.

Takigi means firewood so this Noh event is performed by the light of a bonfire and was established as a form of entertainment in 869 AD.

The performance is mainly through song and dance, accompanied by flutes and drums, with the actors wearing lacquered masks and elaborate costumes.

Seats can be reserved in advance for 3500 yen through Nara City Tourist Association (0742-22-3900) to ensure a good view.