Where: Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, Osaka

Access: Sumiyoshi Taisha Station, Nankai-Dentetsu line

Cost: Free

This rice planting festival takes place at Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine in Sumiyoshi, Osaka. Rice and its cultivation are obviously a vital component of Japanese life. The ‘Otaue’ in the title refers to the process of transferring rice seedlings from nurseries and planting them out in rice paddies.

At this festival, the traditions are respected and the planting is carried out with great ceremony, from the oxen ploughing the fields to the singing and dancing by costumed women, which is said to promote the growth of the seedlings.

The event is accompanied by a parade of samurai in full ceremonial dress.

Where: Kyoto Kaikan First Hall (Okazaki, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto)

Access: Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae bus stop: bus 5, 32, 46, 100
Cost: 1st floor seats: 9000 yen; 2nd floor seats: 5000 yen

This event is unique in that it brings together maiko (geisha) drawn from all five geisha districts in Kyoto.

The 20 maiko taking part demonstrate the differences in the traditional dances of their districts in an amazing opportunity to see the famous maiko of Kyoto performing together.

Where: Kitano Tenmangu Shrine

Access: from JR Kyoto Station: bus 50, 101 (30 mins); from Shijo Kawaramachi: bus 203 (25 mins)

This is a purification rite in which a huge (5m) reed wreath is placed at the main shrine gate on the birthday of the shrine god.

It is said that people who walk through the wreath will stay healthy during the next year.

These events are held throughout the country in this season, although most of the events are on the 30th, but this is the biggest wreath in Kyoto.

Growing up, my grandmother always insisted on a proper china cup, the teapot had to be warmed, and the milk had to be added to the cup before the tea – the English version of the tea ceremony!

Here in Japan, the culture of tea is taken very seriously. All tea comes from the Camellia sinensis plant, and its use as a beverage was allegedly first discovered by accident in China around 2700BC. It arrived in Japan around 590AD, transported by priests returning from China. It was initially an expensive drink of the upper classes and the priesthood, and tea was planted at temples.

As Zen Buddhism continued to spread throughout Japan, the tea-making methods and ceremonies used in China were also adopted. The Japanese tea ceremony eventually developed into a celebration of the rituals of tea making, honouring not only the tea itself, but the beautiful implements used to brew and serve it.

South of the city of Kyoto, the town of Uji and its surroundings are famous for tea production. In 1271, tea was first planted in Uji by a Buddhist monk, Kohken, in the area of Obuku, which is an ideal location, having misty mornings, warm days, cool nights, and a light wind to waft away frosts from the slopes.

Although the aristocracy in Kyoto drank expensive powdered green tea, matcha, which is the form used in the tea ceremony, and which contributed to the wealth and fame of Uji, the tea drunk by the populace was mostly roasted and brown.

When the Japanese capital moved to Tokyo, the popularity of matcha declined, and with it the fortunes of Uji. However, a Buddhist monk, Sannojo Nagatani, developed a method of processing green tea that is still used today. Nagatani’s method of steaming tea allowed the general population to drink rolled sencha green tea, instead of brown tea or expensive matcha, and the future of tea production in Uji was secure.

Today, the tea industry is just as strong as ever, with tea harvested several times a year after the prestigious first pick of the year in May. Many events and ceremonies associated with tea are held throughout the region, especially on the first Sunday of October at Kosho Temple where the founders of the Uji tea ceremony are honoured.

In downtown Uji, the smell of roasting tea greets you as you leave the station. There are many tearooms throughout the town and many restaurants that sell food flavoured with green tea, such as noodles. There are also several museums, such as at the Kanbayashi tea house, which describe the history and production of tea and display traditional equipment.

It is possible to experience a traditional tea ceremony at several tea houses. The above Kanbayashi tea house and the Taiho-an in the same street both offer a matcha tea ceremony, and many other tea shops serve the full range of tea types in a more relaxed setting.

It you can’t make it to Uji, of course many other tea shops can be found throughout Japan. If you’re in Kyoto, one of the most popular and famous tea shops is Ippodo (Teramachi street, east side, between Nijo and Marutamachi). Ippodo has a nearly 300-year history, blending and selling teas. In the shop, all of the different types of tea blends are displayed and can be tasted before purchase. They also sell tea-making equipment to achieve the best results. In the tea room, the staff don’t just serve tea, they demonstrate and instruct on the techniques for brewing different types of tea and the best teas to serve at different times of day and seasons and for different events. This experience can be extended by attending one of their tea-making workshops. All of their teas come with English descriptions and details on tea preparation methods. Their website provides information about all different types of green teas.

http://www.ippodo-tea.co.jp/en/about/index.html

Where: Various shrines, including Jishu-Jinja and Kitano Tenmangu

Access: Jishu-Jinja: Kiyomizu-michi stop: from JR Kyoto Station, bus 206 (15 mins); from Shijo Kawaramachi, bus 207 (10 mins)
Kitano Tenmangu: from JR Kyoto Station, bus 50, 101 (30 mins); from Shijo Kawaramachi, bus 203 (25 mins)

The Tanabata Festival is a star festival of love. In various countries, there are local folk stories of star-crossed lovers whose tales are remembered in the story of the lovers Vega and Altair who are separated in the sky by the Milky Way and are only permitted to meet once a year on the 7th day of the 7th month (which can be interpreted as different dates depending on your calendar).

In Japan, people write their names, maybe with that of a loved one, or hopes and wishes, on paper dolls or strips that they hang on trees in the hope of starting or maintaining a romantic relationship during the year.

Jishu-Jinja shrine in Kyoto is dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking so this is a popular location for those with romantic aspirations.

The primary messengers of the Inari god are foxes, statues of which are found all over the shrine, one type holding a key to a rice granary and another holding a scroll on which is sometimes written a business contract, while at other times it can be gripping a sheaf of rice. Foxes are regarded as sacred animals in Japan and their big bushy tails represent a plentiful harvest.

Fushimi Inari covers a large site and is immediately recognisable by the thousands of red torii gates that wind through the grounds and up into the forest stretching up the mountain behind the shrine. All of these torii have been donated by companies and business people hoping that their devotion to the shrine will bring good luck in their business endeavours.

The path from the train station to the shrine passes along a street lined with gift shops where, in addition to the typical souvenirs, you can buy miniature torii gates, fox statues, fox confectionary and any other souvenir that could conceivably incorporate a fox!

At the entrance is the main gate, through which lies the main shrine. This houses a symbolic idol, a mirror, which is on public display, a quirk of the Inari shrines. You can often see priests in their finery walking through the grounds or performing rites, and traditional music is often played in one of the side buildings, although you should be careful not to take photos in this sacred area: the guards will be quick to issue a warning if they see you pointing a camera at the musicians.

Through the first batch of torii is another of the five main shrines on the site. Here you can buy a talisman for protection against all kinds of mishaps, as well as little wooden fox-faced plaques on which you can write a wish, a prayer, or anything else you wish to say to the Inari gods. These plaques are then hung up in the shrine precincts, presumably for the gods to read at their leisure.
Part way along the trail leading from this shrine are a couple of large ponds – home to koi carp and huge herons. This makes a pleasant stop-off for a drink and a sit down before you continue up the trail.

The trail is something of a cool spot in the heat of summer as the tunnel made by the torii snakes through the shade of the forest. There are trails off the main path to mini-shrines or to a quiet spot next to a stream. As the trail begins to climb the slopes of Mt Inari, it is bordered by numerous small private shrines and grave sites which are invariably populated by cats but remain atmospheric to wander around, although they can be a little scary in the evening.

The trail continues to the top of the mountain and descends by a different route, making a 4km hike in total, most of which is up steps so it can be hard work. If the walk gets to be too energetic, there are many small shops along the route where you can stop for tea, a cold drink or a snack and to rest your feet.

At New Year, when the Japanese pay their first visit of the year to a shrine, Fushimi Inari is always one of the most popular, with literally millions of people thronging to the shrine to pray for good luck in their business.

Fushimi Inari is one of the most beautiful, atmospheric and unusual shrines in Kyoto, and is located on such a huge site that it’s always possible to escape the crowds – and even the heat of summer.

Access: JR Nara Line: Inari Station; Kyoto Keihan Line: Fushimi Inari Station

Admission: free

Open: 24 hours / 7 days a week

Date: May 15th

Location: Procession starts at Kyoto Imperial Palace at 10.30 a.m., heads to Shimogamo-jinja Shrine via Kawaramachi street (arrives around 11.40 a.m.), and arrives at Kamigamo-jinja Shrine at around 3.30 p.m.
Access: Kyoto Imperial Palace: Marutamachi Street between Karasuma and Teramachi (Keihan Line, Marutamachi Station; Karasuma Subway Line, Marutamachi Station)

This is one of Kyoto’s biggest three festivals, along with the Gion Matsuri and Jidai Matsuri, and originated around 1400 years ago in the time of Emperor Kinmei.

Terrible weather was threatening the grain harvest, and the gods of Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines, the oldest in Kyoto, were thought to be displeased with the local people. The Emperor called for ceremonies to be performed at each shrine, after which the weather abated and the crops were saved.

When Kyoto was officially established in the year 794 AD, its first Emperor, Kanmu, designated the gods of these shrines as protectors of Kyoto and, in 807 AD, made the visit to each shrine a yearly event. This developed into a festival that flourished during the Heian Period, but was shelved for about 200 years until it was restored in the 18th century.

The modern festival celebrates the festival heyday in the Heian Period, as reflected by the elaborate and colourful Heian court dress of the around 600 participants strung out over an 800 m. procession. The parade is headed by the official imperial messengers who visit Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines to pay their respects to the gods. However, the visual focus of the procession is the ‘saio-dai,’ a young woman who was traditionally a princess, but is now a fortunate Kyoto resident.

She is dressed in the customary 12-layered Heian Period ceremonial robes and is carried in a palanquin by attendants, and accompanied by carriages, horses and oxen decorated with hollyhock leaves.

The name of the festival ‘Aoi Matsuri’ refers to the hollyhock (Aoi) leaves used to decorate the participants, the horses, and the floats used in the procession. Hollyhocks were once thought to protect against turbulent weather and earthquakes.

On arrival at each shrine, various ceremonies are performed, including the exchanging of gifts, including a horse, but only in front of an invited audience.

Spectator seats can be reserved along the route by contacting Kyoto Tourist Association (075-752-0227).

Stops on the route

Shimogamo Shrine

Access: City bus, Shimogamo-jinja stop

This is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, and in the world. Documents dating back to the year 2 B.C. have been found relating to the shrine, which has clearly had a presence since very early times.

When Kyoto was established, prayers for its future success were said at Shimogamo Shrine and it has since become the focus of prayers for peace in Japan and for its people.

During the Heian period, Shimogamo was the central shrine for Kyoto, Japan and the Imperial Family, and features in The Tale of Genji as the centre of culture and religion in Japan.

This is the first stop during the Aoi Matsuri procession on May 15th; however, it is also where the festival rituals begin on May 3rd. An archery display is performed as a purification ceremony by riders dressed as court military officers who attempt to hit hollyhock leaves as they gallop past on horseback.

On May 12th, over 100 people in Heian dress accompany priests from Shimogamo Shrine at 9.30 a.m. to pick up the Spirit of the God from Mikage Shrine and bring it back to Shimogamo Shrine, which is followed by celebratory music and dancing.

Kamigamo Shrine

Access: City bus, Kamigamo-jinja stop

Kamigamo Shrine, along with Shimogamo Shrine, is one of the oldest shrines in Kyoto, and is a designated World Cultural Heritage site.

During Aoi Matsuri on May 15th, all of the shrine buildings and attendants are swathed in hollyhock leaves. The shrine is the final stop during the festival procession and an envoy from the Emperor is received at a bridge over a stream in the extensive wooded grounds.

Date: May 11th and 12th

Location: Kofuku-ji Temple, Noborio-ji-cho, Nara City

Noh is a form of Japanese traditional musical theatrical drama and this festival is performed in the open air at the World Heritage Site of Kofuku-ji Temple.

Takigi means firewood so this Noh event is performed by the light of a bonfire and was established as a form of entertainment in 869 AD.

The performance is mainly through song and dance, accompanied by flutes and drums, with the actors wearing lacquered masks and elaborate costumes.

Seats can be reserved in advance for 3500 yen through Nara City Tourist Association (0742-22-3900) to ensure a good view.

Date: May 1st – 24th

Location: Pontocho Kaburen-jo Theatre, Kyoto
Access: Keihan Line, Shijo Station; city bus, Kawaramachi Sanjo stop

This is a month of dancing by maiko and geiko (geisha) based in the Pontocho area of Kyoto, which is located along the west side of the Kamogawa River between Sanjo and Shijo streets. The event was established in 1872 for the Kyoto Exposition and has continued since that time.

Three times a day, the maiko perform a series of elegant and colourful dances in an event which brings the public up close with the elusive maiko and geiko of Kyoto.

Various tickets are available, with or without tea. For details, contact the theatre on: 075-221-2025

The shrine was founded in 949 AD, but has been rebuilt several times with the most recent version dating to 1845. Sugawara Michizane was himself said to be fond of plum (ume) trees so Tenjin related shrines usually have a collection of ‘ume’ trees located somewhere in their grounds, their deep-pink blossoms coming into flower a few weeks before the lighter, more delicate shades seen on the cherry trees.

As Sugawara was a scholar, these shrines are particularly popular with students preparing for examinations.

Tenjin Matsuri

Tenmangu Shrine is also the base of the renowned Tenjin Matsuri, a 1000-year-old festival held annually on July 24th and 25th and ranked as one of the top festivals in Japan.

As the biggest festival in Osaka, celebrations at this time of year involve the whole city, with music and theatre performances occurring throughout the nation’s second city at this time. The opening and closing ceremonies for the festival are performed at Tenmangu Shrine, from where the land procession to the river begins. This procession involves 3000 people dressed in traditional Imperial dress dating to the 8th - 12th centuries.

On arrival at the river in the evening, the procession takes to the water and into a parade of boats illuminated with naked flamed torches that appear to dance atop the swell of the bay.

Sailing upstream from Tenmabashi Bridge, accompanied by a traditional summer fireworks display, crowds line the banks of the river, enjoying the usual food and drink stalls long into the night.

For more information: http://www.osaka-info.jp/tenjin_matsuri/main_en.html

Access: Tanimachi / Sakaisuji Subway line: Minamimorimachi Station – 5 mins on foot