Tokyo Explorer

For an interesting walk around the Meguro area, make for the West exit at Meguro station.

When you come out, cross at the traffic lights then head down the slope between the ‘atre’ building and SMBC Bank with its green and white sign. This steep road takes you first past a temple, Daien-ji, dating back to 1772. The grounds here contain hundreds of small Buddha statues, including one wrapped in a red bib, singled out for special veneration; its melted face marking it as a survivor in a fire that destroyed most of the city during the Edo-era (1603-1867).

The Gajo-en hotel, at the bottom of the slope, is a bit of an oddity. The building itself is a thoroughly modern high rise affair, yet when you step inside, the emphasis is very much on the traditional. Part of the ground floor is occupied by a Japanese garden with a waterfall. A large glass-fronted shop displaying a row of white wedding dresses reveals the real business of the hotel and the reason for the unusual interior. After the wedding ceremonies, kimono-clad guests, or the newly weds themselves, can often be seen strolling through the garden, having their picture taken in front of the waterfall, or some of the man-made backdrops, doing what the hotel’s brochure describes as ‘love cruising.”

During the 50s and 60s it was love cruising of a different type that may have been taking place at Gajo-en, when the original building was used as an R & R facility for American servicemen.

Following the road down from Gajo-en, a large Disneyesque building with the words “Love” emblazoned on one of the towers continues the theme and welcomes you to Meguro River. Turn right at this love hotel and begin your journey along the bank that will eventually take you to Nakameguro.

The river is lined with cherry blossom trees and in early spring they come into bloom. Then, you may also be presented with something of an obstacle course as you try to avoid the drunken revellers celebrating the annual hanami ‘cherry blossom viewing’ parties under the trees. The only main road you will cross as you follow the river is Meguro-dori near the start of your walk which is itself worth the short detour. Turn right and walk along Meguro-dori, and soon and you will come to an interesting collection of old shops, cheap bars and restaurants, many specializing in noodles (ramen), that show a more earthy side of Meguro that existed before the trendy antique shops and Italian restaurants arrived. The lanterns that light the pavement give the old shopping street a distinct atmosphere at night

Walk along the left bank of the river and shortly after crossing Meguro-dori, an outdoor swimming pool, open from mid- July to early September will come into view. Entry is only 400 yen, and it’s a nice place to stop for a dip in the summer. On the path by the bank around here, a fruit seller with a good eye for a business opportunity can often be found selling peaches to the thirsty masses while behind the pool, you’ll find Meguro Art Gallery, with its community-related exhibitions often interactive and child-friendly.

It’s a pleasant walk along the river and for the most part you are shaded by the trees, a welcome relief in summer. It wouldn’t be Tokyo though without some hint of the surreal, however, and the huge white chimney that can be seen for miles around, provides it.

Up close, signs assure us of the non-polluting properties of the Meguro Incineration Plant, but you feel it may not be best to linger too long in its proximity! Nakameguro Park, a little further along provides a more comforting view.

There are a couple of old bridges that cross the river along your way which provide good views in both directions. Although there are not many cafes along the bank till you get to the Nakameguro area, the two-story Sakura Café and Gallery, about half way between Meguro and Nakameguro, is a good stop-off at which to sit and take in the peaceful atmosphere.

Except for during the cherry blossom season, the riverbank is rarely busy, and it’s a nice antidote to some of the more crowded areas. There are also a number of benches under the trees where you can sit, unravel a bento box and relax.

The walk from along the river to Nakameguro takes around 40 minutes and as you approach the Nakameguro area, you will have to cross to the opposite side to continue your journey or else face an un -welcome detour to the main road.

From this side of the river, you can see an open park area. In summer, this is often the venue for free outdoor concerts, usually Jazz or classical, so you may arrive at Nakameguro in some style, serenaded by music.

As you arrive in Nakameguro, cross the river again, go back on yourself a little, and you will find yourself in a cluster of restaurants and cafes whose location has made them popular among Nakameguro’s trendy young crowd. The Café Combine and the French Restaurant “Huit,’ both with seats facing the river are recommended; the latter showing its staying power by way of the ‘depuis 2005’ on its advertising board which tells something of the life-expectancy of restaurants here.

The river disappears at this point beneath the busy main road, and you will have to head to the , Yamate-dori, before returning to the river near Nakameguro Station. In Nakameguro proper, the river bank is much busier than elsewhere and it’s become the site for small boutiques, bars and restaurants.

Most of these, however, have made use of the original buildings and there is a nice contrast between the old, often wooden exterior and the modern, trendy interiors. In summer, the fronts of the cafes open out onto the river bank and there is a laid-back feel to the area, reminiscent to a degree, of London’s Camden Market. The evening is a good time to head here too, as the lanterns and lights from the stores light up the river – and there are always plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from.