Tokyo Explorer

Koenji, to the west of Shinjuku is home to a secret – one of the best patisseries in the capital; La Reine.

Run by a man trained in the culinary hotspots of France, Belgium and Germany, Jun Honma (JH) is still the better side of forty and recently sat down with TE’s Enatsu Watanabe and Mark Buckton to discuss life, cakes and car washing!

TE: Please tell our readers a little about yourself. What took you into the world of all things ’sweet’?

JH: First, as a high school boy I wanted to be a tour conductor. Around me there were many people returning from overseas and that is probably why I wanted to go abroad. As a high school student I worked in a bakery, but I grew up in a local town without too many culinary options which is why I developed an interest in food.

TE: Are you from a family of chefs back in Fukuoka?

JH: No, (my father was in the engineering business) and I moved there in my fourth year of elementary school, but no-one remains in Fukuoka now.

TE: You did of course train in France, Belgium and Germany in your mid-20s. How did you feel as a Japanese man working in Europe? Any particular memories?

JH: When in Europe, I was a kind of apprentice but in being so, I, we all, were in a competition of sorts to be the best. When the French (students) went home, I stayed behind to practice things they could not do. The French often left earlier and usually had a quite relaxed attitude to work. After I finished work proper, I returned home and practiced decorative sweet forms and when my co-workers slept I kept on studying.

TE: Of the three countries you have studied in, in which did you feel the most comfortable?

JH: Hmmm, Belgium. France is good but French people, especially in Paris, can be stuck-up. It’s very different in Belgium. In Belgium it is easier to live (for me), more comfortable. However, my wife did say she couldn’t live in Belgium, it is boring and too dark, but (for me) living there was great.

TE: The images on your homepage alone made my mouth water, but how do you manage to avoid ‘testing’ everything, everyday?

JH: I don’t (laughs). We, I, have to test and check everything of course. First we check visually, and then with a little taste. Often it is only I, but sometimes my staff as well. We have to check if the taste is good, or not up to scratch so we can give the best to our customers.

TE: La Reine offers various types of roll cakes, petit gateaux, gateaux and cookies. Which would you say is your best seller?

JH: (thinks, smiles) Macaron I think. I want to promote the macaron now. It is colourful, and is selling well. I like the chocolate macaron the most. I like chocolate full stop. Even when visiting small shops I try and buy something made of chocolate.

TE: Away from sweets, what do you like to eat? Do you have any favorite restaurants in Tokyo?

JH: I like French food, but restaurants in Tokyo…..hmmm……I’m not sure about that. I like tempura too. I like lighter tastes now and tempura (can) be lighter. I also like more traditional dishes, the kind of home-made dishes (from the past)

TE: La Reine is based in Koenji in West Tokyo. Any plans for further branches?

JH: No, no plans at present, but if I had the opportunity, I would look for a place with little competition. Also, it must be in an area in which the locals would want to eat cakes.

TE: No plans in Ibaraki (north of Tokyo)? (says Ibaraki resident EW hopefully)

JH: (laughs) No, sorry, not enough people there I think.

TE: According to your homepage, you also offer La Reine products online. Has this proven a profitable method of doing business given the delicacy needed in handling the deserts La Reine produces?

JH: It can be hard. Especially with cakes being destroyed during the process of delivery. Last year a lot of cakes were destroyed while being delivered (by a major delivery company) and I had to apologise to many people.

TE: There has been criticism in certain fields of Japanese people visiting Europe to learn an ‘art’ before returning to Japan to open schools etc and to then focus on making money without really trying to improve the art in question. Is this criticism justified and do you have any plans to return to Europe for further training or to work there in future?

JH: I cannot say I am not interested in (the business side) of course, but the income can help us improve the ultimate service offered to our customers. I have to enjoy my job, my staff too, so it isn’t all about the business – not exclusively. That is all part of the game. Also, I would love to go back to Europe again for a couple of months and to walk down the streets of Paris. Visiting Europe helps my imagination and with inspiration in producing cakes. Actually, there was an opportunity to open a shop in Belgium but it is a very costly undertaking and it wouldn’t be easy for a foreigner.

TE: Were you given the chance to design a cake or a cookie for any person in the world, who would you choose and what would you make?

JH: There really is no single famous person I would like to design a cake for. I always focus on the regular people. All my customers are equal. That kind of customer means a lot to me; to see them happy. Also, I really like making the effort to make something for those I am close to, my family or friends or customers. The taste is the same for everyone.

TE: Do you have any famous customers you can mention?

JH: An ex-sumo star, currently named Shibatayama Oyakata (formerly yokozuna Grand Champion Oonokuni) has been to the shop as well as a famous (Japanese) comedian duo named 99. Etsuko Ichihara too. That said, my main focus is always normal people. I put it all in there for regular customers.

TE: What do you do in your own free time?

JH: (laughs) I like washing my car……. Too many birds ‘drop’ onto my car all week so I have to wash it. Seriously though, I don’t really have any free time at all. I am always here (at La Reine). Every night I go home, but am thinking about the next day’s cakes. Hmmm, I like sleeping. That is refreshing!

TE: Last question then, and perhaps the most difficult. If you were banished to a desert island, which single cake, cookie petit gateaux would you take with you (if you had a refrigerator!)?
JH: (looks at his multi-coloured display case and thinks long and hard before sidestepping) Hmmm, something I made……I think.

Link - http://www.la-reine.co.jp