Tokyo Explorer

In recent years there has been a certain level of discussion in Japan as to whether or not it is right and proper to enter the huge burial mound in Sakai City, to the immediate south of Osaka, in order to investigate the remains of those interred.

According to Japanese legend, the site, officially named Sakai Nintoku Burial Mound, is the grave of the Emperor Nintoku who was said to have ruled the nation 1600 years ago.

Recent research, however, and even some comments from up high in Japan on the lineage of Nintoku originating on the Korean peninsula, has led to speculation that any artifacts discovered and brought to light would upset the current delicate status-quo on national origins. For this reason, to date, no known attempts at revealing exactly what lies inside have thus far been carried out. (Photo** See below)

What is known, and going with it belonging to Nintoku for now, is that the keyhole shaped structure, a shape that is only revealed from the air, measures several hundred metres in length and perhaps another two hundred wide, is the largest such tomb in existence.

Today the tomb has lost some of its shape and is covered by trees, appearing for all intents and purposes like a small hill dropped in the centre of a sprawling landscape of homes and factories.

This is not to say a visit is not worthwhile, especially as the mercury soars, and not least of all to enjoy the chance to escape the sweltering grey jungle of Osaka in mid-summer, for if Tokyo is lacking in greenery at times, Osaka is almost devoid of it and this makes oases like Nintoku’s tomb (or whoever is in there) the perfect place to spend a hot afternoon and early evening.

Surrounded by a moat, the mound is situated a good 30 or so minute train ride from downtown Osaka in the industrial city of Sakai – a place currently known more for its knife making industries and as the birthplace of Sen-no-Rikyu – a Japanese tea master*.

Access: Mozu Station (Hanwa Line from Tennoji Station in Osaka)

Fee: no charge

* in 2010, the world’s largest solar plant, now under construction in Sakai City, will also go online.

** - Copyright held by “National Land Information (Color Aerial Photograph)), Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport”