Fushimi Inari Taisha

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June 13th, 2008 by Carolyn Todd

The shrine of Fushimi Inari Taisha is located in south-east Kyoto and is the head shrine of approximately 40,000 Inari shrines scattered throughout Japan. It was founded in the year 711AD by the powerful Hata family from Korea to honour the rice god. Over time this dedication expanded from agriculture to include business and industry, and today all Inari shrines are now devoted to the guardianship of industry, agriculture, rice, and fertility.

The primary messengers of the Inari god are foxes, statues of which are found all over the shrine, one type holding a key to a rice granary and another holding a scroll on which is sometimes written a business contract, while at other times it can be gripping a sheaf of rice. Foxes are regarded as sacred animals in Japan and their big bushy tails represent a plentiful harvest.

Fushimi Inari covers a large site and is immediately recognisable by the thousands of red torii gates that wind through the grounds and up into the forest stretching up the mountain behind the shrine. All of these torii have been donated by companies and business people hoping that their devotion to the shrine will bring good luck in their business endeavours.

The path from the train station to the shrine passes along a street lined with gift shops where, in addition to the typical souvenirs, you can buy miniature torii gates, fox statues, fox confectionary and any other souvenir that could conceivably incorporate a fox!

At the entrance is the main gate, through which lies the main shrine. This houses a symbolic idol, a mirror, which is on public display, a quirk of the Inari shrines. You can often see priests in their finery walking through the grounds or performing rites, and traditional music is often played in one of the side buildings, although you should be careful not to take photos in this sacred area: the guards will be quick to issue a warning if they see you pointing a camera at the musicians.

Through the first batch of torii is another of the five main shrines on the site. Here you can buy a talisman for protection against all kinds of mishaps, as well as little wooden fox-faced plaques on which you can write a wish, a prayer, or anything else you wish to say to the Inari gods. These plaques are then hung up in the shrine precincts, presumably for the gods to read at their leisure.
Part way along the trail leading from this shrine are a couple of large ponds – home to koi carp and huge herons. This makes a pleasant stop-off for a drink and a sit down before you continue up the trail.

The trail is something of a cool spot in the heat of summer as the tunnel made by the torii snakes through the shade of the forest. There are trails off the main path to mini-shrines or to a quiet spot next to a stream. As the trail begins to climb the slopes of Mt Inari, it is bordered by numerous small private shrines and grave sites which are invariably populated by cats but remain atmospheric to wander around, although they can be a little scary in the evening.

The trail continues to the top of the mountain and descends by a different route, making a 4km hike in total, most of which is up steps so it can be hard work. If the walk gets to be too energetic, there are many small shops along the route where you can stop for tea, a cold drink or a snack and to rest your feet.

At New Year, when the Japanese pay their first visit of the year to a shrine, Fushimi Inari is always one of the most popular, with literally millions of people thronging to the shrine to pray for good luck in their business.

Fushimi Inari is one of the most beautiful, atmospheric and unusual shrines in Kyoto, and is located on such a huge site that it’s always possible to escape the crowds – and even the heat of summer.