Tokyo Explorer

photos:Carolyn Todd

Date: May 15th

Location: Procession starts at Kyoto Imperial Palace at 10.30 a.m., heads to Shimogamo-jinja Shrine via Kawaramachi street (arrives around 11.40 a.m.), and arrives at Kamigamo-jinja Shrine at around 3.30 p.m.
Access: Kyoto Imperial Palace: Marutamachi Street between Karasuma and Teramachi (Keihan Line, Marutamachi Station; Karasuma Subway Line, Marutamachi Station)

This is one of Kyoto’s biggest three festivals, along with the Gion Matsuri and Jidai Matsuri, and originated around 1400 years ago in the time of Emperor Kinmei.

Terrible weather was threatening the grain harvest, and the gods of Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines, the oldest in Kyoto, were thought to be displeased with the local people. The Emperor called for ceremonies to be performed at each shrine, after which the weather abated and the crops were saved.

When Kyoto was officially established in the year 794 AD, its first Emperor, Kanmu, designated the gods of these shrines as protectors of Kyoto and, in 807 AD, made the visit to each shrine a yearly event. This developed into a festival that flourished during the Heian Period, but was shelved for about 200 years until it was restored in the 18th century.

The modern festival celebrates the festival heyday in the Heian Period, as reflected by the elaborate and colourful Heian court dress of the around 600 participants strung out over an 800 m. procession. The parade is headed by the official imperial messengers who visit Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines to pay their respects to the gods. However, the visual focus of the procession is the ‘saio-dai,’ a young woman who was traditionally a princess, but is now a fortunate Kyoto resident.

She is dressed in the customary 12-layered Heian Period ceremonial robes and is carried in a palanquin by attendants, and accompanied by carriages, horses and oxen decorated with hollyhock leaves.

The name of the festival ‘Aoi Matsuri’ refers to the hollyhock (Aoi) leaves used to decorate the participants, the horses, and the floats used in the procession. Hollyhocks were once thought to protect against turbulent weather and earthquakes.

On arrival at each shrine, various ceremonies are performed, including the exchanging of gifts, including a horse, but only in front of an invited audience.

Spectator seats can be reserved along the route by contacting Kyoto Tourist Association (075-752-0227).

Stops on the route

Shimogamo Shrine

Access: City bus, Shimogamo-jinja stop

This is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, and in the world. Documents dating back to the year 2 B.C. have been found relating to the shrine, which has clearly had a presence since very early times.

When Kyoto was established, prayers for its future success were said at Shimogamo Shrine and it has since become the focus of prayers for peace in Japan and for its people.

During the Heian period, Shimogamo was the central shrine for Kyoto, Japan and the Imperial Family, and features in The Tale of Genji as the centre of culture and religion in Japan.

This is the first stop during the Aoi Matsuri procession on May 15th; however, it is also where the festival rituals begin on May 3rd. An archery display is performed as a purification ceremony by riders dressed as court military officers who attempt to hit hollyhock leaves as they gallop past on horseback.

On May 12th, over 100 people in Heian dress accompany priests from Shimogamo Shrine at 9.30 a.m. to pick up the Spirit of the God from Mikage Shrine and bring it back to Shimogamo Shrine, which is followed by celebratory music and dancing.

Kamigamo Shrine

Access: City bus, Kamigamo-jinja stop

Kamigamo Shrine, along with Shimogamo Shrine, is one of the oldest shrines in Kyoto, and is a designated World Cultural Heritage site.

During Aoi Matsuri on May 15th, all of the shrine buildings and attendants are swathed in hollyhock leaves. The shrine is the final stop during the festival procession and an envoy from the Emperor is received at a bridge over a stream in the extensive wooded grounds.