Tokyo Explorer

photos: Mark A Buckton

quintessentially Japanese but attracting global interest

Originally said to have been performed as a test of strength between two mythical gods, Takeminakata and Takemikazuchi, in order to determine the outcome of an early Japanese leadership struggle (Takemikazuchi prevailing) the sport most often associated with the Japanese of old is back in town this month for the latest honbasho (Grand Sumo Tournament).

Scheduled to take place between May 11th and 25th, the sumo of the early 21st century is much changed and to some extent unrecognizable in part from the early days of fights to the death inside square rings made of rice bales held oftentimes under Imperial patronage; over the centuries many Japanese emperors were said to have been fans of sumo, and the Showa Emperor, father of the current emperor, was himself buried with a list of famous yokozuna grand champions in his casket.

His son, the Heisei emperor is a big fan and of late, the daughter of the current Crown Prince and Princess, has herself been seen cheering on the rikishi (wrestlers) at the Ryogoku Kokugikansumo stadium - and she is just out of kindergarten!)

By the late 18th century, sumo existed in similar form to that displayed today with organized tournaments, a ranking system printed on distributed sheets known as banzuke and with many of the finishing techniques used by the current crop of sumo stars becoming standard.
Another contribution of sorts added during the Edo-era (1603-1867) saw rules of subservience to local lords serve to establish the heya (sumo stable) system that remains in force to this day.

Stables have always acted as bases, homes, training centers and all things in between for young wrestlers who join in their mid to late teens or once they have graduated from a university where they belonged to the sumo club. Once in a heya the only way out is through retirement as there is officially no such thing as re-admittance once a rikishi departs the sport. Professional sumo carries no second chances - it is an all or nothing lifestyle lived 24/7. Changing stables / transfers never happen(s) bar for when a new stable is born of an existing facility and rikishi may move with the man who initially brought them into the sport.

Sumo truly is a way of life and there is no more obvious sign of that lifestyle than the ‘mage’ hairstyle the rikishi must grow and wear as they climb the ranks to possible fame and fortune.

The mage (topknot) comes in two forms - the standard chonmage which sees long hair laid on top of the head pointing forwards in similar form to the samurai of old. This is the standard appearance of all lower ranked rikishi and the higher ranked rikishi when not fighting or during practice bouts. The second type of mage is reserved for sekitori alone; the salaried wrestlers in the top two divisions, who, along with financial rewards for their efforts are entitled to wear their hair in the oicho-mage form, similar in shape to ginkgo leaves, but only for tournament bouts.

Today, the opportunity to see these cultural ambassadors in action up close, or even trying sumo yourself at amateur clubs has never been easier. 」

For those in Japan, sumo is part and parcel of everyday life featuring on news shows and TV commercials, and complemented by six honbasho each year - one honbasho running for a period of fifteen consecutive days. Tokyo, Osaka, Tokyo again, Nagoya, Tokyo once more, and then Fukuoka the locations for the honbasho.

Tickets to see a day’s action are not as expensive as many would have you believe and the 400 or so tickets sold on the day cost just 2100 yen apiece. That said, the masu-seki box seats (four cushions in a box in traditional Japanese style - on the floor) can be pricey at approximately 45,000 yen each per day but when divided by four….and considering the action runs from 9am to 6pm……

Today, most Japanese ticket agencies sell the tickets as do thousands of convenience stores around the nation putting access to sumo well within reach of the man in the street.

Away from the professional game, sumo is becoming increasingly popular with children in Japan as more and more clubs spring up and with both children and adults across the globe where 85 nations are now said to have sumo associations although the level of activity in different countries varies greatly. Clubs in Japanese neighborhoods target the next generation of rikishi as sumo in schools is banned below high school, (sumo was seen as to closely connected to State Shinto following WWII) and can only be considered in after school clubs – post 4.00 p.m. when school is considered to be over for the day.

Seasonal tournaments and sometimes visits from professionals all serve to keep domestic interest levels high, and overseas the interest has never been greater thanks in large part to the 20-year American-era of former ozeki Konishiki and the now retired yokozuna grand champion pair of Akebono and Musashimaru, as well as a host of Eastern Europeans, Russians and Mongolians in more recent years – including the two current grand champions; Hakuho and Asashoryu – both Mongolians.

Get along to a honbasho, support your fellow Russian / Mongolian / Japanese etc. and just sit back and enjoy the culmination of thousands of years of culture – packed into a day of action atop the simple earthen dohyo at the heart of the action. You will not regret it.

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