Tokyo Explorer

Arguably Japan’s most exclusive department store, Wako on the 4-chome crossing in the exclusive shopping district is a legend in and of itself – and one each and every visitor to Ginza should make the effort to visit time permitting.

In much the same way as Harrods rounds off a trip to London – a little time spent mouth agape at the prices in Wako is a ‘must do’ when in Tokyo.

Founded by a gentleman named Kintaro Hattori in 1881, and as with many Japanese companies created at the time, named after its founder, the business that was to later become Wako started off life as a watch and jewelry specialist until, in the confusion of post-WWII Japan, the company split and the retail portion of Hattori’s empire adopted the name they retain today.

Between its founding and the early morning hours of September 1st 1923, the shop, then known as K. Hattori, was particularly known for its prominent clock tower.

That was, until disaster struck just before lunchtime that warm late summer day; the Kanto area hit by a massive magnitude 7.9 earthquake later given the name ‘The Great Kanto Earthquake’ as most were preparing the midday meal.

In excess of 100,000 perished in the quake and resulting fires; some figures put the final death toll as high as 140,000. Hundreds of thousands of buildings were either entirely or partially destroyed, and Wako was no different; its famed Hattori Clock Tower toppling from its perch high atop the former structure, shattering on the street below.

No records exist as to whether or not the falling clock added to the list of fatalities and it took almost a decade before the department store born from the ashes of early September 1923, had another clock tower added to its roof.

Designed by Japanese architect Jin Watanabe, the structure as it still stands today is effectively unchanged since its 1932 unveiling, and was one of the few buildings left largely unscathed after the American fire bombings of the Japanese capital during the closing days of the Second World War.

The years 1945 to 1952 saw Japan occupied by US forces who, for reasons undocumented but likely connected to showing who was boss, opted to use the Wako building as the Tokyo branch of the PX / BX facilities found on US bases.

Eventually the Americans moved out and business as normal resumed.

Today, with smaller branches in the upscale neighbourhoods of Hiroo and Minato in Tokyo as well as in Haneda Airport and several high end hotels dotted around the country, the store is officially titled Wako Co., Ltd., but is more often than not known by the name of Ginza Wako or, simply ‘Wako.’

As in the early days, jewelry, top of the range crockery, watches and clocks as well as luxury items imported from Europe and the US form the backbone of its stock – and related reputation for only dealing in the best products on the market.

Prices sadly, are Ginza and then some! Think gold credit cards or direct bank vault access if you want to buy, or stick to the proverbial ‘window shopping’ if a mere mortal!

Expense aside though, Ginza would just not be Ginza without Wako.

For further information on Wako as is, view the official website at www.wako.co.jp